http://www.northwestwoodworking.com/forum/ Northwest Woodworking Studio Forum » Recent Topics en-US Fri, 10 Sep 2010 21:39:50 +0000 http://bbpress.org/?v=1.0.2 q http://www.northwestwoodworking.com/forum/search.php http://www.northwestwoodworking.com/forum/topic/golf-guides-you-should-know#post-36 Thu, 05 Aug 2010 07:33:16 +0000 wuzyla55 36@http://www.northwestwoodworking.com/forum/ <p>Golf Guides You Should Know</p> <p>When you forget your basics, a bit assistance, rather than some sort of lesson, [url=http://www.golfleading.com/Titleist-2010-AP2-Irons-3-9P-1181.html]titleist 2010 ap2 irons[/url] can be all of you need. The publications listed below can give you ticklers in which will help you keep your game to normal and focus your ishiner exercise. [url=http://www.golfleading.com/TaylorMade-R9-Fairway-Wood-1026.html]taylormade r9 fairway wood[/url] Simply having these guides handy, you're approach ahead of the performance. Armour, Tommy. 1959. The Circular of Golf having Tommy Armour. [url=http://www.golfleading.com/TaylorMade-R9-Driver-1003.html]taylormade r9 driver[/url] The traditional publication with course management for the leisure golfer. Boomer, Percy. 1946. Upon Learning Golf. The very first ebook on how to be a sense gambler. [url=http://www.golfleading.com/TaylorMade-R9-460-Driver-1004.html]taylormade r9 460 driver[/url] Referred to and observed on by lecturers actually today. Find this publication and research the item. Faldo, Nick. 1995. The Swing for Life. An excellent eBook related to creating your swing. [url=hhttp://www.golfleading.com/Ping-Rapture-V2-Black-Dot-Irons-3-9PS-1142.html]ping rapture v2 irons[/url] The idea gives you a definite criteria of the basics of the golf swing and drills to build them into yours. Though do not know being a great putter, Faldo's tips with putting is while useful as anything else throughout the book.Floyd, Raymond. </p> http://www.northwestwoodworking.com/forum/topic/purchasing-hardwoods-class#post-33 Tue, 04 May 2010 03:35:49 +0000 Chip Webster 33@http://www.northwestwoodworking.com/forum/ <p>Hi Gary,</p> <p>Earlier this year I suggested a class to help less knowledgeable folks make good selection and purchasing decisions about lumber for their projects. I note the class was developed and will be conducted this Saturday. I will miss this opportunity due to my daughter's graduation ceremony from the California College of the Arts in San Francisco. I stopped by the Studio today to tell you in person and learned you are teaching inn Scotland. So the good news is I joined the Forum (I like it!). I am disappointed I will miss the class this time and hope the turnout is sufficient to conduct the class again. I don't want to be in the bucket of people that recommend something and then are 'no shows' without you knowing the reason. Thanks for developing the class. I hope your visit to Scotland is all you hope for.</p> <p>Regards,</p> <p>Chip Webster </p> http://www.northwestwoodworking.com/forum/topic/sharpening#post-31 Thu, 22 Apr 2010 20:35:05 +0000 ebushee 31@http://www.northwestwoodworking.com/forum/ <p>Gary,</p> <p>Yeah, I know, a contentious issue among woodworkers. In the near future I'll likely invest in some sharpening stones, and was looking for your opinion on the vast array of choices out there. Currently I'm concentrating on my sharpening techniques with sandpaper on a granite block. The sandpaper method seems to work ok, but I know that the constant replenishing of the paper will soon get old. At your studio I believe you've fallen into a routine of diamond stones for the initial shaping, followed by waterstones and a strop for the final honing and polishing (all of those preceded by hollow grinding on a slow speed grinder). Do you use those stones because you've tried everything else and have found them to be the best for your needs? Or because you've found it to work and see no need to try something different? I'll be taking Jeff's sharpening class at your studio next month, which I'm hoping will be a good opportunity to try a few different stones on some plane irons that are in desperate need of help.</p> <p>I should also mention that I thoroughly enjoyed the hand tools skills class this past winter with Brooks and Zach. (Zach did a great job of rescuing some of our less than perfect joinery) My bench is slightly out of square, and the joints only look flawless from a safe distance, but it looks great sitting under our coat rack and my girlfriend loves it. I'm looking forward to taking more classes.</p> <p>Thanks,</p> <p>-Eric </p> http://www.northwestwoodworking.com/forum/topic/is-good-design-forever#post-27 Fri, 26 Feb 2010 04:19:33 +0000 Steve1 27@http://www.northwestwoodworking.com/forum/ <p>I'm a huge fan of old European furniture, the real classic stuff, like Louis XV and XVI, and early French Empire. Most people find this stuff too fussy and/or ornate. To my eye, much of the Stickley style is too geometric, and for Arts and Crafts styles I'm much more likely to lean to Greene and Greene for example. So here's a question for anyone out there, can good design be recognized without the context? If one were not conversant with Chinese furniture for example, would it be obvious which were great pieces and which were not? Or any other unfamiliar style?</p> <p>This question arises as I read some older books (1930's-1940's) on furniture design and style. There is, to me, a lot of bias in the writing, for example describing French Empire as a degenerate form of the high style court furniture of the Louis'.</p> <p>So an alternative question is this: Is it still possible to design and build a drop dead gorgeous French Empire piece or would it be destined to be only duplication or pastiche? Can you only look back or can you go back?</p> <p>Now my brain hurts... </p> <p>Steve Warburton </p> http://www.northwestwoodworking.com/forum/topic/handsaw-sharpening#post-28 Sun, 28 Feb 2010 23:13:33 +0000 James 28@http://www.northwestwoodworking.com/forum/ <p>I have been interested in doing more handsaw work in my shop for a while now, and have been looking for a good panel saw. I looked at the Lie-Nielsen during the tool show, but temping as it was, $225 was just more than I wanted to spend (I did buy a new backsaw, but that's another post.)<br /> Just yesterday I found two Disston saws for sale and grabbed them up. They're in workable shape - straight and not too much rust. Problem is - they need sharpening, and I don't have any idea how to sharpen them. It's not something I've ever done. I know you need a saw vise, some specialized files and a saw-set. I don't really want to invest the time to learn to do saw sharpening (I finally feel like I have planes and chisels down somewhat after more years than I care to mention.)<br /> Is there anyone in the Portland area who does this as a sharpening service? Preferably someone who does it well?</p> <p>Thanks a lot for any feedback. </p> http://www.northwestwoodworking.com/forum/topic/speaking-of-chisels#post-18 Mon, 22 Feb 2010 03:34:56 +0000 Steve1 18@http://www.northwestwoodworking.com/forum/ <p>Hi Gary,</p> <p>Do you use two sets of chisels, one for paring and one for chopping? I have two sets but always default to using my nice Lie-Nielsens for both. Thus, when I start to pare dovetails, the chisel is in need of sharpening because I've just used it to chop all the tails and pins in oak or ipe. The sad result is that my frenetic forward momentum is dissipated into the ether (hopefully charging up some woodworking somewhere else). </p> <p>As a side note, the little trick you showed us in your joinery class of creating a little bevel at the scribe line before paring has made a world of difference in my ability to cut dovetails. I no longer whack at it like H. neanderthalensis with a pointy rock. Next thing you know I'll be walking bipedal.</p> <p>Cheers,<br /> Steve Warburton (again) </p> http://www.northwestwoodworking.com/forum/topic/tools#post-7 Tue, 29 Dec 2009 18:44:16 +0000 Gary Rogowski 7@http://www.northwestwoodworking.com/forum/ <p>Buy your tools as if they're the last ones you'll ever buy. You'll only be unhappy once. </p> http://www.northwestwoodworking.com/forum/topic/password#post-10 Tue, 16 Feb 2010 21:03:58 +0000 joetatoo 10@http://www.northwestwoodworking.com/forum/ <p>Hi Gary I just joined your forum and it seems that it is pretty cool. Hopefully it will have great success with many members. </p> <p>What I wanted to know is if you have a profile page where we can go and change our info such as our password. Thanks in advance, Joe </p> http://www.northwestwoodworking.com/forum/topic/the-sweet-smell-of-success#post-14 Thu, 18 Feb 2010 06:49:59 +0000 Steve1 14@http://www.northwestwoodworking.com/forum/ <p>Hi Gary,<br /> Several years ago in one of your articles for FWW, you mentioned that you finished the inside of a drawer with shellac with a touch of floral scent added (lilac I think). I'm wondering if you have any retrospective views on this idea, like: did it last?<br /> Steve Warburton </p> http://www.northwestwoodworking.com/forum/topic/tools-1#post-12 Tue, 16 Feb 2010 22:01:59 +0000 joetatoo 12@http://www.northwestwoodworking.com/forum/ <p>Hello Gary.</p> <p>I recently decided to start trying to make furniture and cabinets.<br /> I framed homes for about 27 years, though due to health problems I had to stop working about 3 and a half years now. I had gotten rid of all my framing tools (stupid)because I had broken my back in a car crash.(But not paralyzed thank God). Anyway I started buying new tools for furniture work. I have a tablesaw, Skill saw, mitre saw, 2 routers 1 is 1 1/2 HP 1/4" collet and the other is 2hp 1/4" and 1/2" collet, router table, rail and style bits as well as a 20 piece router bit set, frostner bit set, chisels, bench grinder, bench vise, small compresser with brad nailer. The next thing I want to get is a band saw. Could you suggest a good brand, and also what other tools you might think would be good for me to have. The kitchen cabinets I built turned out so great I was inspired to try and build some indoor and outdoor furniture in the near future. Thanks in advance Joe. </p> http://www.northwestwoodworking.com/forum/topic/staining#post-11 Tue, 16 Feb 2010 21:18:14 +0000 joetatoo 11@http://www.northwestwoodworking.com/forum/ <p>Hello Gary.</p> <p>I<code>m a carpenter of somewhat 27 years. Mostly framing homes, did some trim work, hung doors windows etc... Though I never built furniture or cabinets. / years ago I was injured badly in a car crash and can</code>t work anymore. Though I still love to work with my hands. I recently bought a new home and decided to tackle building kitchen cabinets in my basement kitchen. I really surprised myself on how good they came out(incredible) for my first time building them. the only trouble I had was with the stain. I gess i did`nt read up on it enough. I tried putting it on bare wood (red oak) and it was really uneven. Ithought it was just me.So i sanded it most of it off now then clear coated it and the results were awesome. I realize now that I should have sealed the wood first. What is the best product for sealing in your opinion, also should I sand them with a fine grit then give one more coat of clear coat. Thanks in advance Joe </p> http://www.northwestwoodworking.com/forum/topic/new-website#post-2 Sun, 27 Dec 2009 22:23:22 +0000 jh406 2@http://www.northwestwoodworking.com/forum/ <p>Gary, this looks good. I think the new forum looks promising </p> http://www.northwestwoodworking.com/forum/topic/matching-wood-trim#post-4 Mon, 28 Dec 2009 21:40:10 +0000 Jeffy 4@http://www.northwestwoodworking.com/forum/ <p>Gary,</p> <p>I have a project where I would like to match the finish and color of the my home's woodwork as close as possible. The present woodwork in the house is 30 years old. I have been experimenting with scraps of left over wood with poor results. Do you have a resource you would recommend (person, book, website, retail store) for advise? </p> http://www.northwestwoodworking.com/forum/topic/your-first-topic#post-1 Sat, 26 Dec 2009 23:47:25 +0000 Anonymous 1@http://www.northwestwoodworking.com/forum/ <p>Welcome to the <strong>Northwest Woodworking Studio Forum</strong>. This purpose of this forum is to offer a free resource for our friends and students to interact, network, seek solutions, and to share successful approaches to challenges. As a member of this forum we believe you will get a return proportional to the effort you participate. This is also an opportunity to use the best practices for online forums. Contribute remarkable content and give a way for others to find you via your signature (include your business name, website, etc). On your first post, you may introduce yourself and tell us something about you and or your business. </p> <p><strong>Here are the general rules:</strong> </p> <ul> <li>Please respect and accept others, their views, and their choices. No personal attacks as we want to foster a safe environment for members especially those that are not used to online forums.</li> <li>Please treat information discussed on this forum as a private conversation with a trusted friend that you will not discuss outside of this forum as it relates to a specific business.</li> <li>Please stay on topic as this helps the search function to find information more easily</li> <li>When asking questions, you may receive a better answer if you first describe the situation and the specific advise you are looking for.</li> <li>If you feel uncomfortable with a post made by another, please notify us via email and we will review and possibly remove the post.</li> <li>Above all make the journey fun as we all create success for each other. This is YOUR forum, contribute, participate, and let’s all prosper in doing so.</li> </ul> <p><strong>Thank you,<br /> Gary Rogowski<br /> Northwest Woodworking Studio</strong> </p>