http://www.northwestwoodworking.com/forum/ Northwest Woodworking Studio Forum » Recent Posts en-US Tue, 07 Sep 2010 02:21:14 +0000 http://bbpress.org/?v=1.0.2 q http://www.northwestwoodworking.com/forum/search.php http://www.northwestwoodworking.com/forum/topic/golf-guides-you-should-know#post-36 Thu, 05 Aug 2010 07:33:16 +0000 wuzyla55 36@http://www.northwestwoodworking.com/forum/ <p>Golf Guides You Should Know</p> <p>When you forget your basics, a bit assistance, rather than some sort of lesson, [url=http://www.golfleading.com/Titleist-2010-AP2-Irons-3-9P-1181.html]titleist 2010 ap2 irons[/url] can be all of you need. The publications listed below can give you ticklers in which will help you keep your game to normal and focus your ishiner exercise. [url=http://www.golfleading.com/TaylorMade-R9-Fairway-Wood-1026.html]taylormade r9 fairway wood[/url] Simply having these guides handy, you're approach ahead of the performance. Armour, Tommy. 1959. The Circular of Golf having Tommy Armour. [url=http://www.golfleading.com/TaylorMade-R9-Driver-1003.html]taylormade r9 driver[/url] The traditional publication with course management for the leisure golfer. Boomer, Percy. 1946. Upon Learning Golf. The very first ebook on how to be a sense gambler. [url=http://www.golfleading.com/TaylorMade-R9-460-Driver-1004.html]taylormade r9 460 driver[/url] Referred to and observed on by lecturers actually today. Find this publication and research the item. Faldo, Nick. 1995. The Swing for Life. An excellent eBook related to creating your swing. [url=hhttp://www.golfleading.com/Ping-Rapture-V2-Black-Dot-Irons-3-9PS-1142.html]ping rapture v2 irons[/url] The idea gives you a definite criteria of the basics of the golf swing and drills to build them into yours. Though do not know being a great putter, Faldo's tips with putting is while useful as anything else throughout the book.Floyd, Raymond. </p> http://www.northwestwoodworking.com/forum/topic/purchasing-hardwoods-class#post-35 Fri, 28 May 2010 21:33:27 +0000 Susan Thompson 35@http://www.northwestwoodworking.com/forum/ <p>I would love to attend a class on purchasing hardwoods. Please DO re-schedule it. </p> http://www.northwestwoodworking.com/forum/topic/purchasing-hardwoods-class#post-34 Fri, 07 May 2010 17:03:46 +0000 jz 34@http://www.northwestwoodworking.com/forum/ <p>Hey, Chip - </p> <p>You're right, Gary's off to Scotland, ostensibly to teach classes at the Chippendale School. Hopefully he will have the time to sample some of the fine local adult beverages.</p> <p>Unfortunately the Lumber Buying class isn't happening this weekend, so you'll have a second shot at the class whenever it is rescheduled. Your idea was a good one and I know Gary was happy to have it.</p> <p>Hope to see you soon!</p> <p>Jeff Zens </p> http://www.northwestwoodworking.com/forum/topic/purchasing-hardwoods-class#post-33 Tue, 04 May 2010 03:35:49 +0000 Chip Webster 33@http://www.northwestwoodworking.com/forum/ <p>Hi Gary,</p> <p>Earlier this year I suggested a class to help less knowledgeable folks make good selection and purchasing decisions about lumber for their projects. I note the class was developed and will be conducted this Saturday. I will miss this opportunity due to my daughter's graduation ceremony from the California College of the Arts in San Francisco. I stopped by the Studio today to tell you in person and learned you are teaching inn Scotland. So the good news is I joined the Forum (I like it!). I am disappointed I will miss the class this time and hope the turnout is sufficient to conduct the class again. I don't want to be in the bucket of people that recommend something and then are 'no shows' without you knowing the reason. Thanks for developing the class. I hope your visit to Scotland is all you hope for.</p> <p>Regards,</p> <p>Chip Webster </p> http://www.northwestwoodworking.com/forum/topic/sharpening#post-32 Sun, 25 Apr 2010 00:36:52 +0000 jz 32@http://www.northwestwoodworking.com/forum/ <p>Eric -</p> <p>I won't presume to respond for Gary, but he is going to be traveling for a while and I'm not sure if he is taking a laptop with him. Hopefully this post will tide you over until he returns to the keyboard.</p> <p>First off I'm glad to hear you're signed up for Tool Sharpening next month. It's a gateway skill, and once you have it under your belt, doors continue to open in your woodworking progress.</p> <p>We're going to talk about a few different sharpening systems in class including abrasive papers on granite (primarily for flattening) and then synthetic water stones for honing. If you want to review the steps we're going to follow in class, visit my blog, starting here:</p> <p><a href="http://jszcbf.wordpress.com/2009/07/08/sharpening-class-part-i/" rel="nofollow">http://jszcbf.wordpress.com/2009/07/08/sharpening-class-part-i/</a></p> <p>and then follow the progression of sharpening articles. That will get you into the workflow we're going to follow in class. My goal is to have each student leave the Studio at the end of the day with a nicely honed edge, but more importantly leave with the knowledge to prepare all your edge tools the same way in your own shop.</p> <p>Feel free to drop me a line via the blog if you have questions before class.</p> <p>I'm sure Gary will get back to you as soon as he is able.</p> <p>See you in class!</p> <p>Jeff Zens<br /> Studio instructor </p> http://www.northwestwoodworking.com/forum/topic/sharpening#post-31 Thu, 22 Apr 2010 20:35:05 +0000 ebushee 31@http://www.northwestwoodworking.com/forum/ <p>Gary,</p> <p>Yeah, I know, a contentious issue among woodworkers. In the near future I'll likely invest in some sharpening stones, and was looking for your opinion on the vast array of choices out there. Currently I'm concentrating on my sharpening techniques with sandpaper on a granite block. The sandpaper method seems to work ok, but I know that the constant replenishing of the paper will soon get old. At your studio I believe you've fallen into a routine of diamond stones for the initial shaping, followed by waterstones and a strop for the final honing and polishing (all of those preceded by hollow grinding on a slow speed grinder). Do you use those stones because you've tried everything else and have found them to be the best for your needs? Or because you've found it to work and see no need to try something different? I'll be taking Jeff's sharpening class at your studio next month, which I'm hoping will be a good opportunity to try a few different stones on some plane irons that are in desperate need of help.</p> <p>I should also mention that I thoroughly enjoyed the hand tools skills class this past winter with Brooks and Zach. (Zach did a great job of rescuing some of our less than perfect joinery) My bench is slightly out of square, and the joints only look flawless from a safe distance, but it looks great sitting under our coat rack and my girlfriend loves it. I'm looking forward to taking more classes.</p> <p>Thanks,</p> <p>-Eric </p> http://www.northwestwoodworking.com/forum/topic/is-good-design-forever#post-30 Wed, 03 Mar 2010 16:18:43 +0000 Gary Rogowski 30@http://www.northwestwoodworking.com/forum/ <p>Witold Rybczynski postulates in his short book, The Look of Architecture, that form follows fashion. That no design work is timeless. It is of a time and place and culture and setting. Take the Taj Mahal and place it in New York City or Paris and it is remarkable but out of its contexts, religious, cultural, and symbolic. It is therefore almost incomprehensible without its "neighborhood". </p> <p>Yet, we of this muddled design era, keep returning to old styles, older cultures, past glories, or misremembered glories as if they had something to finally offer us this time around. </p> <p>I don't fear the pastiche, the potpourri. We are born with eyes and see the world through them. We also filter what we see through the lens of our culture, our bias.<br /> I say steal from the best sources. Then design and build for the future. Let the critics to come judge us as to whether our Neo-Empire or Neo-Art Deco or Neo-Neo-Classical is worthy. </p> http://www.northwestwoodworking.com/forum/topic/handsaw-sharpening#post-29 Tue, 02 Mar 2010 22:25:25 +0000 Gary Rogowski 29@http://www.northwestwoodworking.com/forum/ <p>Hey James,<br /> I generally can make my way through a saw sharpening so I don't send mine out much. I would try however NW Saw over here on SE 3rd Ave. Good luck. Gary </p> http://www.northwestwoodworking.com/forum/topic/handsaw-sharpening#post-28 Sun, 28 Feb 2010 23:13:33 +0000 James 28@http://www.northwestwoodworking.com/forum/ <p>I have been interested in doing more handsaw work in my shop for a while now, and have been looking for a good panel saw. I looked at the Lie-Nielsen during the tool show, but temping as it was, $225 was just more than I wanted to spend (I did buy a new backsaw, but that's another post.)<br /> Just yesterday I found two Disston saws for sale and grabbed them up. They're in workable shape - straight and not too much rust. Problem is - they need sharpening, and I don't have any idea how to sharpen them. It's not something I've ever done. I know you need a saw vise, some specialized files and a saw-set. I don't really want to invest the time to learn to do saw sharpening (I finally feel like I have planes and chisels down somewhat after more years than I care to mention.)<br /> Is there anyone in the Portland area who does this as a sharpening service? Preferably someone who does it well?</p> <p>Thanks a lot for any feedback. </p> http://www.northwestwoodworking.com/forum/topic/is-good-design-forever#post-27 Fri, 26 Feb 2010 04:19:33 +0000 Steve1 27@http://www.northwestwoodworking.com/forum/ <p>I'm a huge fan of old European furniture, the real classic stuff, like Louis XV and XVI, and early French Empire. Most people find this stuff too fussy and/or ornate. To my eye, much of the Stickley style is too geometric, and for Arts and Crafts styles I'm much more likely to lean to Greene and Greene for example. So here's a question for anyone out there, can good design be recognized without the context? If one were not conversant with Chinese furniture for example, would it be obvious which were great pieces and which were not? Or any other unfamiliar style?</p> <p>This question arises as I read some older books (1930's-1940's) on furniture design and style. There is, to me, a lot of bias in the writing, for example describing French Empire as a degenerate form of the high style court furniture of the Louis'.</p> <p>So an alternative question is this: Is it still possible to design and build a drop dead gorgeous French Empire piece or would it be destined to be only duplication or pastiche? Can you only look back or can you go back?</p> <p>Now my brain hurts... </p> <p>Steve Warburton </p> http://www.northwestwoodworking.com/forum/topic/speaking-of-chisels#post-26 Thu, 25 Feb 2010 17:35:53 +0000 Gary Rogowski 26@http://www.northwestwoodworking.com/forum/ <p>Steve,<br /> The White Sox expectorated as most baseball players do. It is a chief pastime for them. Woodworkers best not as it makes a mess on their work. Unless you're rubbing out a finish. Then it works great and better than a pointy rock. </p> http://www.northwestwoodworking.com/forum/topic/speaking-of-chisels#post-25 Wed, 24 Feb 2010 02:55:30 +0000 Steve1 25@http://www.northwestwoodworking.com/forum/ <p>We don't have bipedalism here yet, but I've seen it on the internets. And yes, we already use the pointy rock for many things, mainly governance, but some education and some woodworking as well. With our state getting rid of education, this should lower the price on pointy rocks for more woodworking. I now own a carbide-tipped pointy rock and have great expectorations.</p> <p>I'm looking into shuffling my schedule to try to make your AWA appearance. I'd love to do more at your place but it's a looooong way off and we don't have none of them there flying machines yet.</p> <p>"Fix things as you go and fix a little bit more while you're at it. "<br /> I think this was actually the 1919 White Sox.</p> <p>Cheers,<br /> Steve </p> http://www.northwestwoodworking.com/forum/topic/tools#post-24 Wed, 24 Feb 2010 02:46:29 +0000 Steve1 24@http://www.northwestwoodworking.com/forum/ <p>I got addicted to refurbing big old hunks of iron. Talk about space hogs. Nothing like Gary's snowflake, which induces great iron envy in me, but still- 20" Delta bandsaw, Powermatic 90 lathe, etc. Lots of fun in transportation, tear down, bearings, paint, etc. Got some baby moons on the bandsaw :-) (anybody get that reference?) I finally got back to working wood which keeps me off ebay at night; well, sort of. </p> http://www.northwestwoodworking.com/forum/topic/tools#post-23 Wed, 24 Feb 2010 01:14:44 +0000 jz 23@http://www.northwestwoodworking.com/forum/ <p>Yeah - funny how that works. The first taste is free...and making one's own tools is just as addictive. I see this class is back on the Spring 2010 schedule - good news! </p> http://www.northwestwoodworking.com/forum/topic/speaking-of-chisels#post-22 Tue, 23 Feb 2010 18:54:52 +0000 Gary Rogowski 22@http://www.northwestwoodworking.com/forum/ <p>Steve,<br /> Slow down buddy. Bipedalism has not made to your part of the world has it? The pointy rock has I know. Just kidding. I'm just kidding. I will be in Albuquerque to speak with the AWA group March 12 and 13. No kidding there. </p> <p>Yes I use my L-N chisels for both chopping and paring and I regret it as do you. That's why I have another 20 chisels most of which are ready for work. I do think that one of the keys to successful momentum building is taking care of things as you go and maybe just one or two things extra. So for instance, I sharpen my dull chisel when needed or directed by the beads of sweat falling onto my work piece. But when sharpening that one, I grab another and maybe a plane iron as well and get more out of the session. </p> <p>Fix things as you go and fix a little bit more while you're at it. </p> <p>I believe these words can be found in one of Ben Franklin's works. Maybe not. Best, Gary </p> http://www.northwestwoodworking.com/forum/topic/tools#post-21 Tue, 23 Feb 2010 18:47:45 +0000 Gary Rogowski 21@http://www.northwestwoodworking.com/forum/ <p>Hey JZ,<br /> Thanks for your second. As we know the first taste is free. Ken Altman's class is a great one. We make a brass plane and harden and temper our irons as well. I discovered how useful one of these little planes can be. Plus the class gives you skills you can use for other things like making hardware. One of my Resident students, Zach, made a shoulder plane for himself. Fun stuff. </p> http://www.northwestwoodworking.com/forum/topic/password#post-20 Mon, 22 Feb 2010 17:50:21 +0000 NWS Administrator 20@http://www.northwestwoodworking.com/forum/ <p>Hi Joe,</p> <p>Thanks for your post! To change your password, simply login to the forum page and 'click' on your name in the upper left-hand corner of the forum page ("Welcome, your name here"). Then 'click' the EDIT tab on the upper right-hand side of the page. </p> <p>I hope this helps! Let us know if you have any trouble! </p> http://www.northwestwoodworking.com/forum/topic/tools#post-19 Mon, 22 Feb 2010 03:37:05 +0000 jz 19@http://www.northwestwoodworking.com/forum/ <p>Although the specific class Gary refers to in this post is in the past, it's likely to be on a schedule in the near future. Having taken this class from Ken, I can second Gary's class review and the fine results you can get with planes made in this hands-on workshop. The size of the mouth opening can be very precisely controlled, providing the maker with the ability to produce light, wispy shavings. And making the iron from a bar of tool steel stock is a revelation. </p> <p>It's a great class - a lot of fun, and worth every penny. </p> http://www.northwestwoodworking.com/forum/topic/speaking-of-chisels#post-18 Mon, 22 Feb 2010 03:34:56 +0000 Steve1 18@http://www.northwestwoodworking.com/forum/ <p>Hi Gary,</p> <p>Do you use two sets of chisels, one for paring and one for chopping? I have two sets but always default to using my nice Lie-Nielsens for both. Thus, when I start to pare dovetails, the chisel is in need of sharpening because I've just used it to chop all the tails and pins in oak or ipe. The sad result is that my frenetic forward momentum is dissipated into the ether (hopefully charging up some woodworking somewhere else). </p> <p>As a side note, the little trick you showed us in your joinery class of creating a little bevel at the scribe line before paring has made a world of difference in my ability to cut dovetails. I no longer whack at it like H. neanderthalensis with a pointy rock. Next thing you know I'll be walking bipedal.</p> <p>Cheers,<br /> Steve Warburton (again) </p> http://www.northwestwoodworking.com/forum/topic/the-sweet-smell-of-success#post-17 Mon, 22 Feb 2010 00:00:16 +0000 Gary Rogowski 17@http://www.northwestwoodworking.com/forum/ <p>Steve,<br /> Like the sweet smell of success, or any blossom for that matter, shortest is sweetest. And like life itself, a scent is transitory if fixed deeply in memory.<br /> The past always seems sweetest. </p> <p>This wave of the linguistic cape no doubt confuses you as was my intent. But alas no, the scent does not last, particularly when you open the drawer a lot to get a whiff. Keep it closed and let memory do its thing. </p> <p>But if you cannot help yourself, try a quick and brief reapplication of the jasmine scent or lilac aroma every few months or so. I imagine too that a moistened cotton rag of the scented shellac placed in a shallow bowl might also serve to keep memory fresh for a while longer.</p> <p>Thank you for your question and for bringing back a memory or two. Gary </p> http://www.northwestwoodworking.com/forum/topic/tools-1#post-16 Sun, 21 Feb 2010 23:48:07 +0000 Gary Rogowski 16@http://www.northwestwoodworking.com/forum/ <p>Hey Joe,<br /> Sorry it took so long for me to reply. I was busy with a Lie-Nielsen Hand Tool Event at the Studio all weekend. </p> <p>I think you need a good set of hand tools. This is the kit I recommend to my Mastery students: </p> <p>Measuring and marking tools: Pencil, tape measure, square, marking gauge, marking knife, sliding bevel, 6" Starrett rule, 24" straight edge/ rule</p> <p>Cutting tools: Back/ dovetail saw, bastard cut file, #49 cabinetmakers rasp, mill file, hand scraper, #80 cabinet scraper, burnisher<br /> Chisels: paring chisels, bevel edge chisels, or mortising chisels, mallet, hammer</p> <p>Sharpening stones: diamond stone - coarse/ fine, combination waterstone 1000/4000 grit or 3 water stones: 250 grit, 800 grit, 6000 grit </p> <p>Hand planes: #4 smoothing plane, low angle block plane, bullnose or shoulder plane, #5 jack plane, spokeshave</p> <p>Bench tools:<br /> Bench hooks: sharpening, holding<br /> Winding sticks, diagonal measuring sticks</p> <p>There will of course be others to get, but this will be a good start.</p> <p>As for band saws, look for an old one first like a Walker Turner, old Deltas, Crescent, Oliver. For new, I'd look at and try out a MiniMax, Laguna, or General. You will have to spend more than you want to get something heavy but it will be worth it in the long run. Good luck to you. Gary </p> http://www.northwestwoodworking.com/forum/topic/staining#post-15 Sun, 21 Feb 2010 23:35:51 +0000 Gary Rogowski 15@http://www.northwestwoodworking.com/forum/ <p>Hey Joe,<br /> Thanks for the notes. I'll get back to you on the profile stuff. </p> <p>As for a seal coat, I use shellac unless the color is really picky then I use rabbit skin glue. But there is a product, get this, called Seal Coat made by Zinnser that is designed for the job. So you can brush it on or pad it on. It will dry quick. In about an hour you can sand it smooth. Or you can make up your own shellac with about a 1 pound cut of flakes to alcohol and it will do the job as well. I'm glad your fix worked. </p> <p>Next time, do a sample. It will save you some trouble down the road. Best, Gary </p> http://www.northwestwoodworking.com/forum/topic/the-sweet-smell-of-success#post-14 Thu, 18 Feb 2010 06:49:59 +0000 Steve1 14@http://www.northwestwoodworking.com/forum/ <p>Hi Gary,<br /> Several years ago in one of your articles for FWW, you mentioned that you finished the inside of a drawer with shellac with a touch of floral scent added (lilac I think). I'm wondering if you have any retrospective views on this idea, like: did it last?<br /> Steve Warburton </p> http://www.northwestwoodworking.com/forum/topic/tools-1#post-13 Tue, 16 Feb 2010 22:05:15 +0000 joetatoo 13@http://www.northwestwoodworking.com/forum/ <p>Ps sorry Gary forgot to mention I have a dado set as well as a good couple of drill bit sets. </p> http://www.northwestwoodworking.com/forum/topic/tools-1#post-12 Tue, 16 Feb 2010 22:01:59 +0000 joetatoo 12@http://www.northwestwoodworking.com/forum/ <p>Hello Gary.</p> <p>I recently decided to start trying to make furniture and cabinets.<br /> I framed homes for about 27 years, though due to health problems I had to stop working about 3 and a half years now. I had gotten rid of all my framing tools (stupid)because I had broken my back in a car crash.(But not paralyzed thank God). Anyway I started buying new tools for furniture work. I have a tablesaw, Skill saw, mitre saw, 2 routers 1 is 1 1/2 HP 1/4" collet and the other is 2hp 1/4" and 1/2" collet, router table, rail and style bits as well as a 20 piece router bit set, frostner bit set, chisels, bench grinder, bench vise, small compresser with brad nailer. The next thing I want to get is a band saw. Could you suggest a good brand, and also what other tools you might think would be good for me to have. The kitchen cabinets I built turned out so great I was inspired to try and build some indoor and outdoor furniture in the near future. Thanks in advance Joe. </p> http://www.northwestwoodworking.com/forum/topic/staining#post-11 Tue, 16 Feb 2010 21:18:14 +0000 joetatoo 11@http://www.northwestwoodworking.com/forum/ <p>Hello Gary.</p> <p>I<code>m a carpenter of somewhat 27 years. Mostly framing homes, did some trim work, hung doors windows etc... Though I never built furniture or cabinets. / years ago I was injured badly in a car crash and can</code>t work anymore. Though I still love to work with my hands. I recently bought a new home and decided to tackle building kitchen cabinets in my basement kitchen. I really surprised myself on how good they came out(incredible) for my first time building them. the only trouble I had was with the stain. I gess i did`nt read up on it enough. I tried putting it on bare wood (red oak) and it was really uneven. Ithought it was just me.So i sanded it most of it off now then clear coated it and the results were awesome. I realize now that I should have sealed the wood first. What is the best product for sealing in your opinion, also should I sand them with a fine grit then give one more coat of clear coat. Thanks in advance Joe </p> http://www.northwestwoodworking.com/forum/topic/password#post-10 Tue, 16 Feb 2010 21:03:58 +0000 joetatoo 10@http://www.northwestwoodworking.com/forum/ <p>Hi Gary I just joined your forum and it seems that it is pretty cool. Hopefully it will have great success with many members. </p> <p>What I wanted to know is if you have a profile page where we can go and change our info such as our password. Thanks in advance, Joe </p> http://www.northwestwoodworking.com/forum/topic/tools#post-9 Mon, 04 Jan 2010 21:32:55 +0000 Gary Rogowski 9@http://www.northwestwoodworking.com/forum/ <p>Our Winter classes are coming up soon. I want to point out the great class with Ken Altman on Making Brass Hand Planes January 16. It was a revelation for me when I first took the class several years ago. I made a small plane based on the French violin bow maker's patterns that Ken brought. It was short, about 2" long, but I put a high angle on the bed so the cutting angle was about 60 degrees. </p> <p>Months went by and I would pick up the tool and admire its color and heft. Then I would put it back down. Until one day I was working on some walnut with some swirl and a small pin knot or two in it. I kept wondering how I was going to clean up this one edge with the knot in it because the edge was too small and narrow. My block plane would have trouble with it. The scraper was all that was left.</p> <p>Then I remembered the brass hand plane. I took it out, tuned it, and then cut through the pin knot with ease and with no tear-out. It was so satisfying to make a tool that did a job, mind you one specific job, but it did it so well. </p> <p>Come and learn with us about making your own tools. It is wonderful and opens new possibilities for you. </p> http://www.northwestwoodworking.com/forum/topic/new-website#post-8 Tue, 29 Dec 2009 19:09:28 +0000 Gary Rogowski 8@http://www.northwestwoodworking.com/forum/ <p>Hi Bill,<br /> Thanks for the comments on the site. We have high hopes. The forum will pick up steam eventually as folks recognize that I'm here and available to answer questions. Happy New Year and enjoy the woodworking. Gary </p> http://www.northwestwoodworking.com/forum/topic/tools#post-7 Tue, 29 Dec 2009 18:44:16 +0000 Gary Rogowski 7@http://www.northwestwoodworking.com/forum/ <p>Buy your tools as if they're the last ones you'll ever buy. You'll only be unhappy once. </p> http://www.northwestwoodworking.com/forum/topic/matching-wood-trim#post-6 Tue, 29 Dec 2009 00:48:22 +0000 Gary Rogowski 6@http://www.northwestwoodworking.com/forum/ <p>Hi Jeffy,<br /> Matching colors and finish can be a delightful foray into the world of finishing. Or<br /> it can teach you how to throw a paint brush very well. </p> <p>Finishing as all know is part art and part alchemy. Experimentation is the only way to go. As for resources, Jeff Jewett has the best book out there now: The Complete Illustrated Guide to Finishes, Taunton Press. He writes with clarity, as if, as if!, he hasn't sniffed too many fumes. So I'd try him first. I haven't been to his site but he also sells finishes under the name Homestead Finishes. </p> <p>Color matching can be tough depending on the wood and age you're trying to match. Often a seal coat of shellac, stain conditioner, or even dilute rabbit skin glue gives a good base on which to start your color experiments. These will even out the dyes or stains better than just applying color to bare wood. </p> <p>Finally, since you're here, I have to tell you that we have a finishing class coming up in March with Rollie Johnson. The five day class is on Furniture Repair and Refinishing. He did refinishing work for 25 years so coloring is something he knows well. Check it out on our site. It might be just what you need to get some in person expert help. </p> <p>Thanks for your question. Gary </p> http://www.northwestwoodworking.com/forum/topic/new-website#post-5 Tue, 29 Dec 2009 00:36:58 +0000 Gary Rogowski 5@http://www.northwestwoodworking.com/forum/ <p>Hey Jim,<br /> Thanks and thanks for noticing. I hope your work is going well. I like the logo on your site. I don't know that I saw it before. See...everyone should take Year One of the Mastery Program over again. It produces so much good stuff. Happy Holidays. Gary </p> http://www.northwestwoodworking.com/forum/topic/matching-wood-trim#post-4 Mon, 28 Dec 2009 21:40:10 +0000 Jeffy 4@http://www.northwestwoodworking.com/forum/ <p>Gary,</p> <p>I have a project where I would like to match the finish and color of the my home's woodwork as close as possible. The present woodwork in the house is 30 years old. I have been experimenting with scraps of left over wood with poor results. Do you have a resource you would recommend (person, book, website, retail store) for advise? </p> http://www.northwestwoodworking.com/forum/topic/new-website#post-3 Mon, 28 Dec 2009 11:24:13 +0000 bitranch 3@http://www.northwestwoodworking.com/forum/ <p>The new website looks really good. It will be interesting to see how the forums evolve. (Hopefully a few more people will discover them.)</p> <p>--<br /> Bill </p> http://www.northwestwoodworking.com/forum/topic/new-website#post-2 Sun, 27 Dec 2009 22:23:22 +0000 jh406 2@http://www.northwestwoodworking.com/forum/ <p>Gary, this looks good. I think the new forum looks promising </p>